Conquering Peaks and Inspiring Minds: A Session with Mountaineer Priyanka Mohite

Mentorship Session with Priyanka Mohite – India’s Renowned Mountaineer

Hosts: Dr. Narendra Chirmule and BioPatrika

Continuing our monthly Tuesday Mentor Konnect sessions powered by BioPatrika, we were thrilled to host Priyanka Mohite, the first Indian woman to summit six 8,000+ meter peaks, including Everest, Kangchenjunga, Lhotse, Makalu, Annapurna, and now Manaslu. Honored with the Tenzing Norgay National Adventure Award in 2020, Priyanka shared her incredible journey of resilience, the science behind her endurance, and the mindset required to conquer the world’s highest peaks.

Her recent achievement is a testament to her spirit: on the first day of Navratri, Priyanka summited Mount Manaslu (8,163 m), the world’s 8th highest peak, adding yet another milestone to India’s mountaineering legacy[cite: 301]. She now sets her sights on Dhaulagiri, Cho Oyu, and Shishapangma, continuing her quest to conquer all accessible 8,000-meter giants.

Watch full session here: https://youtu.be/q-CjdRydtYs

Here are the key insights from our conversation with Priyanka.

The Journey: From Everest to Six 8,000ers

Priyanka’s high-altitude mountaineering career began unconventionally—with the highest peak itself. She had the opportunity to climb Mount Everest in 2013 when she was just 20 years old, an experience she described as the “biggest thing” in her life. It was after this summit that she learned about the fourteen 8,000-meter peaks and was inspired to continue her journey.

However, the path was not always straightforward. She faced major setbacks, including unsuccessful attempts on Lhotse due to natural disasters and being forced to turn back just meters from the summit of Elbrus due to a blizzard. These moments were heartbreaking, but they fueled her determination. In 2018, four years after her first attempt, she successfully summited Lhotse. She recalls crying for half an hour on the summit, a culmination of years of persistence.

Her subsequent climbs have been tests of extreme endurance. On Makalu, she completed a summit push from Camp 3 and returned directly to base camp. Her ascent of Kanchenjunga was a grueling 22-hour push to the summit, followed by a 6-7 hour descent, spending nearly 30 hours above 7,500 meters. Most recently, she completed the Manaslu expedition in a record nine days, an achievement that was “unbelievable” even to her.

Balancing Life, Career, and a Passion for the Peaks

When asked how she balances her life sciences career, family, and mountaineering, Priyanka emphasized two things: interest and a strong support system. “If you have an interest, you will definitely do it,” she explained. She credits her ability to manage her demanding workout routine, profession, and family responsibilities to the incredible support she receives from her parents, in-laws, and husband. Her in-laws even supported pushing her wedding date when a summit push for Dhaulagiri coincided with the original date.

The Science and Strategy Behind Summiting

Diet and Nutrition
Priyanka follows a strict diet, especially in the 4-5 months leading up to an expedition. She focuses on her intake of protein, fiber, and fat, having learned how crucial fat percentage is for endurance at high altitudes. She avoids all processed foods and sweets. This disciplined diet played a key role in her endurance during the long Kanchenjunga climb. During climbs, she relies on ORS for hydration and high-protein bars, finding that proper hydration is critical for recovery after long hours of climbing.

Training and Acclimatization
Physical Fitness: Her daily workout routine is split between cardio in the morning (running, uphill walking with a heavy pack) and muscle strengthening in the evening, with a strong focus on protecting her knees. She also believes in outdoor training and practices pranayama and stretching regularly.

Acclimatization: Priyanka explained that acclimatization is a highly individual process. Key signs that the body is adapting well include maintaining a good appetite, drinking plenty of water, and getting proper sleep. A good indicator is that water consumed should be passed normally, not vomited. Conversely, loss of appetite, vomiting, and disorientation are signs that the body is not adapting well.

Facing Unforeseen Challenges

Climate Change: Priyanka has directly witnessed the effects of climate change. She attributes her recent unsuccessful attempts on Dhaulagiri to unpredictable weather, including severe snowstorms and blizzards. She noted that weather forecasts are becoming less reliable and that the monsoon season was unusually late during her Manaslu expedition. “Now it’s high time, I think we should think about, and we should work for it,” she urged.

Financial Hurdles: Despite her numerous achievements and national awards, securing financial support remains a significant struggle. She explained that adventure sports lack widespread awareness and live coverage in India, making it difficult to find sponsors. She continues to advocate for the sport to help future climbers who face similar financial barriers.

Rapid-Fire Insights

Mountain to Repeat? Kanchenjunga, to compare the “20s Priyanka and 30s Priyanka”.

A Pre-Climb Ritual? She decided to break some of her old rituals on her latest climb, such as her rule of not drinking Coke until after the summit.

What’s on Your Mind During a Climb? Sometimes she chants the Ganpati Stotra or Hanuman Chalisa, and is currently vibing on some Rajnikanth songs.

A Superpower You’d Want? To “eliminate the bad things in the world… we all need peace”.

A Final Message of Perseverance

Priyanka’s parting advice to the students and aspiring professionals in the audience was a powerful message of hope and determination. “Never give up on your dream,” she said “Maybe sometimes it’s a phase, it’s not meant for you, but maybe in the future, it’s for you only… whatever things happen, you just keep on going, do your work, things will all fall in place one day”.

Note: Interested in joining Mentor Konnect group, reachout to scikonnect@gmail.com today.

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